The Time Savers Part II

Back in August I started a multi-part blog on time savers. A good brush was the first part of this series. Now we move on to the number 2 time saver for most homeowners and pro’s alike, the roller.

If you are doing any amount of large surfaces, a roller can be a key to maximum production. Choosing the best one for the job at hand will speed up job completion. Like the brush, we recommend purchasing a good roller arm and covers (or pads).



Roller arms are not all the same and a good one will last a DIY’er a lifetime. Look for the thickest shank (the metal part that the handle is mounted to) to keep it from flexing while rolling. The best ones will have built in bearings on the part that spins and hold the roller cover. This makes it easier to roll down the wall without “skidding”. Some also have quick release systems built in so it can be quickly snapped on and off compatible roller poles.

There are plenty of good ones out there but my favorite is the Wooster Sherlock frame pictured above. It has all the features mentioned above and it can easily be found at most paint and big box stores. Here’s a video link at Wooster’s site. You can get these for both 9 inch and 14 inch roller sleeves.

The frame does you no good without a roller cover and like frames there are a ton of choices. Rather than go through each cover and material, we are just going to touch on the more common ones, choices that will deliver a good job. Like many things, price will determine the quality of the cover and its ease of use.

  

     Cover materials are both man-made and synthetic. Most pros like wool the best, but they are pricey. A good second choice is a 50/50 blend of polyester and wool. Both of these covers will work in all paints and generally clean up easy. Personally I’m a big 50/50 fan as it has similar performance of wool at half the cost and probably Family Professional Painting’s number one choice.

    The next material choice (for me) would be the synthetic wool or polymide. Which has the characteristics of wool while holding more paint. Nobody does this better than the Purdy Corp.



   There are a slew of other materials out there, but probably the main things you need to be concerned about is how it is made and will it work with your paint. The covers listed above will pretty much work in all paints and stains, latex or oil.

    Check the length of the “nap”. It will be listed on the cover some where. That is the length of the fibers holding the paint. Generally use longer naps for rougher surfaces and vice-versa. The most common is the ½ inch nap for walls and ceilings. If your walls are in rough shape, you may even want to use a ¾ inch for the extra “stipple” (texture) that aids in making some imperfections less noticeable. They make much shorter naps for smoother finishes, but they will not hold much paint and you will find yourself dipping much more often. I would avoid using a nap shorter than 3/16 inch. The packaging on most roller covers will provide information to help you choose.

Last choice is roller cover width. Without going into too much detail, use the widest cover you can for the job. This will increase production. We use 14-18 inch covers and frames as much as possible, but something you need a shorter one. It’s not uncommon for us to use a 6 inch roller in tight confined rooms. (A powder room)

Let’s recap:

• Get a roller frame with a thick shank to prevent flexing and internal bearing for smooth rolling.

• Wool, wool blends and synthetic wool cover offer the best combination of finish, cleanup, shed resistance and long life. They will also work in almost all paints and stains.

• Nap length helps determine how much paint you get to the wall and the “stipple” or texture it leaves on the surface. Longer naps for rougher surfaces (block walls) and vice-versa.

• Use the widest cover you can for the task at hand. I don’t recommend that homeowners go wider than 14 inch.

If there are any topics you'd like us to cover, lets us know.